Drafty rooms, hot upstairs, a high power bill? We close the gaps in your attic floor so the air you pay for stays inside.
Attic air sealing in Rohnert Park means closing the gaps in your attic floor with caulk, spray foam or other sealant, so the air in your rooms stops leaking up into the attic and outside air stops getting pulled in behind it.
Most of those leaks sit where your walls meet the attic floor and around anything that pokes through it. Blown cellulose and fiberglass, whether it's blown or in batts, slows heat but doesn't stop air, so stacking more on top of an open gap leaves the leak running underneath. That's why sealing is its own step, and the real payoff comes from plugging the large holes, not chasing every crack.
What moves the price is how many large gaps your attic floor has, how much old insulation we have to pull back to reach them, and how easy the attic is to get around in. The schedule turns on what we find first, since a roof leak or old wiring gets dealt with before we seal. Your own number comes from the estimate, once I've been up there and shown you photos.
One more thing worth knowing when you compare bids. In California, installing any kind of insulation, whether it's for heat or for sound, falls under the state's C-2 insulation and acoustical license class, so that's the license to ask about before anybody climbs into your attic.
Air sealing is less about the sealant and more about knowing where to look and what has to happen before the attic floor gets covered back up.
The leaks that matter most are the large ones, where walls meet the attic floor, around recessed can lights, flue pipes and ducts, in plumbing and duct chases, the boxed-in runs pipes travel through, along kneewalls and dropped ceilings, and at the attic hatch. That's where your house loses the most air, so that's where our time goes.
Soffit vents, the ones under your eaves, along with ridge and gable vents and any combustion air ducts, need open air to do their job. We seal around them, not over them, because a buried eave vent stops the attic from breathing and moisture starts showing up in the framing.
The usual order checks safety first, that anything burning gas vents properly and the air inside stays healthy, then attic ventilation, then air sealing, and only then insulation. If new insulation is on your list, book the sealing first, because that's where the energy savings come from and the gaps are easiest to reach before the new layer goes down.
From the first call to the final walk-through, here's who does what and what you get at each step, so there are no surprises once we're in your attic.
Call (707) 576-6028 or send us a message, and we'll get back to you to set up a time. Tell us what's bugging you, a hot room upstairs or a cold floor, so I know where to start.
I come out, go up into the attic, take photos and then sit down with you to show what I found and what I'd do first. That's where you get your price.
If your job needs a permit, we apply with the city's Building Division, which reviews applications in the order they come in, and we book inspections through the city's online portal. On the day, our crew protects your floors and handles the prep and sealing.
Before we pack up, I walk through the finished job with you so you can see what got sealed and that the insulation is back in place, and I'll answer anything you're still wondering about.
Piling on more insulation won't stop a draft, so we go after the big holes in the attic floor first, around lights, pipes, chases and the hatch. Where those gaps are buried, our crew pulls the old insulation back, closes them with caulk or foam depending on their size, and puts the insulation back once everything's sealed.
Pulling insulation back also lets us see what's under it. If it's been soaked by a roof leak or it's full of droppings, laying it back over a clean seal just keeps the problem in your attic, so I'll show you and we'll talk about taking it out. When it goes back, we keep it even out to the edges, where attics are usually thin, and clear of the vents.
Sealing is often the first half of a bigger attic job. If your insulation is thin or settled, it's the right moment to plan retrofit insulation, adding to what an older house already has, because the gaps are closed and no open hole gets buried under the new layer. If your ductwork runs through the attic, spray foam insulation may be the better call, and the two choices below explain why.
Sealing the big gaps and then adding blown-in insulation, loose fill blown through a hose, usually gives you the most for the money. It's what I suggest for most attics where the ducts aren't up there.
Foam costs more, but it seals air and insulates at the same time. When your ductwork lives in the attic, that extra cost is usually worth it, because it brings the ducts inside the sealed part of the house.
We reply within one business day to set up a time. The estimate is free, done in person at your house, and there's no obligation. I come out, go up into the attic, take photos and sit down with you to go over what I found and what I'd do first.
(707) 576-6028Rohnert Park asks for a permit on any new construction, addition, alteration, repair or demolition, and its list calls out reroofs, fireplaces, pools and carports but doesn't mention air sealing. So the list alone doesn't settle it for your job. Before work starts, we check with the city's Building Division, and if a permit is needed, we apply and set up the inspections. You can reach their staff at 707-588-2240 too.
On the money side, California's contractor board says a down payment can't be more than $1,000 or 10 percent of the contract price, whichever is less, and later payments have to match work done or materials delivered. That's a good rule to hold anyone to before you sign.
We're based in Rohnert Park and work across the cities around it in Sonoma and Marin counties, including Cotati and Santa Rosa. A lot of the attics I climb into around here have can lights, bath fans and a hatch in a hallway ceiling, and those spots are usually where the air gets out.
I started out hauling bags and crawling through attics on a small crew, and the lead I worked under taught me to look at the whole house before selling anybody anything. I opened T&S Rohnert Park Spray Foam Insulation here in 2021, so we've been at it five years, and attic and crawl space work done in the right order is what people know us for.
I come out for every estimate myself, so the person who looks at your attic is the one who plans the job. Our crew does the work, with me on site or one of our lead installers running the day. We're licensed and insured. Satisfaction guaranteed.
If your house has been drafty for years and you've been meaning to deal with the attic, call (707) 576-6028 or send us a message and I'll come take a look.
An older house with thin or settled insulation usually needs more once the gaps are sealed, and retrofit work adds it without tearing into finished rooms.
When ducts run through the attic or a space needs sealing and insulation in a single layer, spray foam handles both, though it costs more than loose fill.
We're based in Rohnert Park and do attic air sealing across Sonoma and Marin counties. The cities below have their own pages, and we work in plenty of others nearby, so call and ask.
There's no one price, because every attic is different. Sealing with caulk and foam around the gaps usually costs less than spray foaming the whole attic, and if old insulation is soaked or dirty and has to come out, that adds to the job. I'll give you your number after I've been up in your attic.
It depends on the size of the attic and how much insulation has to be moved, and I'll tell you what the day looks like when I give you the estimate. Most of the work happens up in the attic, so you can usually stay home. If part of the job uses spray foam, I'll tell you ahead of time whether you, the kids and pets need to step out and when you can come back in.
Clear a path to the attic hatch and move anything stored right under it, because that's how our crew gets in and out all day. If you keep boxes up in the attic, moving them off the floor helps us reach the gaps. Let us know about pets so we can keep doors closed.
One guide says to stop if the attic has active knob and tube wiring, the old kind run on porcelain knobs, vermiculite insulation, or bathroom fans that vent into the attic instead of outside. A leaking roof, an unvented gas fireplace or an unvented kerosene heater comes first too. If I find any of these, I'll show you and we'll plan around them.
Leaks can be found with an infrared camera, by feeling for moving air, or by looking at the insulation itself, because dirty, darkened insulation shows where air has been pulling dust through it. One industry standard calls for a blower door test, a big fan in a doorway that measures how leaky the house is, before and after sealing, so it's fair to ask a contractor whether they test both times.
In Rohnert Park, only a licensed California contractor or the legal owner of the property can be issued a building permit. If your air sealing job turns out to need one, we apply for it and keep you posted, so you don't have to deal with the paperwork yourself.
If you know where your bath fans vent, when the roof was last redone or whether there's old wiring up there, mention it when you call (707) 576-6028 so I know what to look at first.
