If upstairs runs hot or the rooms feel drafty, we fix what's up there, seal the gaps, then insulate so the house stays comfortable.
Attic insulation in Rohnert Park means laying the right material on your attic floor so the rooms below stay cooler in summer, hold their heat in winter and pick up less outside noise, and we only lay it after the gaps are sealed and anything wrong up there has been fixed.
Most calls start with a hot upstairs, a drafty bedroom, the room over the garage that never feels right or a power bill that keeps creeping up. Usually the attic tells the story. The old insulation has flattened or thinned out, and air is slipping through gaps around lights, pipes and the hatch, so heat goes right past whatever's left.
The price mostly turns on how big the attic is, how many inches are already up there and what shape they're in, and how much sealing the gaps will take. It goes up if old material has to come out, if repairs come first or if you choose foam over loose fill. When I come out, I show you what I found and what I'd do first.
The schedule depends less on the install than on what comes before it. Anything that needs fixing up there gets handled first, and if the job needs a permit, we apply for it and wait on the city before we start. Once that's sorted out, the insulation itself is usually the quick part.
These are the spots I check first in every attic, because they're where insulation jobs usually go wrong, and they're why two attics the same size can need very different work.
Fresh insulation laid over old material that got soaked by a roof leak or filled with rodent droppings just buries the problem, and the smell and moisture stay. If the old layer is clean and dry, we can usually build on it. If it isn't, it comes out first, and I'll tell you which one you've got.
Recessed can lights, plumbing pipes, wire holes and the attic hatch all leak air into the attic. Insulation slows heat but doesn't stop a draft, so if those gaps stay open, it's fighting moving air all day. Air sealing, closing those gaps before anything covers them, is the step that pays off most.
Your attic breathes through vents at the eaves, and loose fill blown in carelessly buries them, so moisture builds up and shows in the framing. We set baffles, simple chutes that hold the vent path open, then blow the insulation so the edges get full coverage instead of the thin layer that often ends up over the outer walls.
Here's how a job runs with us from the first call to the final walk-through, and who you'll be dealing with at each step along the way.
Call (707) 576-6028, weekdays from 6 AM to 10 PM or weekends from 8 AM to 10 PM, or send a message through our form. We'll get back to you and set up a time that works.
I come out myself, go up into the attic and take photos. Then we sit down together, I show you what I found, list anything that needs fixing first and walk you through what I'd do and what it costs.
If a permit is needed, the city reviews applications in the order they come in, so we start once it's through. On the day, our crew protects your floors and handles the prep and install, with me or a lead installer running it.
Before we pack up, I walk through the finished job with you and go over what we sealed, what we fixed around and how deep the new layer runs. After that, keep stored boxes off the insulation and the hatch closed tight.
Most attics I open have something to deal with before new insulation goes down, like a stain from an old roof leak, aging wiring or signs that mice or rats have moved in. I give you a plain list of those items first, so nothing gets buried. If old knob and tube wiring is still live up there, insulation waits until it's replaced or properly boxed in.
Then comes the part you'll never see. We close up the gaps around lights, pipes, wires and the hatch while they're still easy to reach. If the old insulation is clean, we move it aside to get at those gaps, and if it's not, it comes out. It's worth asking any contractor which of those two they plan to do.
Last comes the insulation. Most attics get blown-in insulation, loose fill blown through a hose, so it settles around joists and wires and fills corners a roll would miss. We keep the depth even out to the edges. If the attic is only part of the problem, I'll say so and talk with you about home insulation for the walls and crawl space too.
People ask me about spray foam a lot, and it's a good product. It costs more, and it seals air while it insulates. For most attics, though, sealing the gaps and topping up loose fill usually wins on value. Foam earns its price when your ductwork runs through the attic, because sealing at the roofline brings those ducts inside the comfortable part of the house.
We seal the gaps we find, clear or replace the old layer as needed and blow in fresh loose fill to an even depth. It's the right call for most attics and easier on your budget.
Foam goes on the underside of the roof deck, sealing and insulating in one pass. Closed-cell foam, a dense foam that also blocks moisture, costs more and makes the most sense when the attic holds ductwork or equipment.
We reply within one business day to set up a time. The estimate is free, done at your home, and there's no obligation. Once you send the form, I come out myself, go up into the attic and sit down with you to go over what I found.
(707) 576-6028Here in Rohnert Park, permits go through the city's Building Division, which takes applications online from contractors and owners and books inspections through its online portal. Whether an attic insulation job needs one isn't something I'll guess at, so we check with that office before work starts. If one's needed, we apply, keep you posted and set up the inspections. You can also call their staff yourself at 707-588-2240.
The California Energy Commission says some work also calls for HERS testing, a check by an energy rater, depending on what's done, and a properly permitted job is what brings any required testing along. That's one more reason we'd rather settle the permit question up front than find out after the insulation is in.
We're based in Rohnert Park and work across the cities around it in Sonoma and Marin counties, from Cotati to Santa Rosa and plenty of others nearby. A lot of the attics we open around here have thin, flattened insulation from years back, ducts running through and gaps nobody sealed when the house went up.
I started out hauling bags and crawling through attics as a helper, and the lead I worked under taught me to look at the whole house before selling anybody anything. That's still how I work. I come out for every estimate myself, and I'll tell you plainly when something isn't worth the money.
We've been in business since 2021, and attic and crawl space work done in the right order is what people know us for. Our crew does the install, with me on site or one of our lead installers running the day.
We're licensed and insured. Every job we do is satisfaction guaranteed. If your upstairs runs hot or you've been putting off that old attic for years, call (707) 576-6028 or send us a message and I'll come take a look.
If your attic just needs more depth over clean, dry insulation, blown-in loose fill tops it up evenly and reaches the tight corners near the eaves.
When cold floors, drafty walls or the crawl space are part of the picture, a whole-house look catches what an attic job alone would leave behind.
We do attic work all over Sonoma and Marin counties. The cities below each have their own page, and if yours isn't listed, call anyway, because we work in plenty of others nearby.
Attic insulation in the Santa Rosa area usually runs about $1,700 to $5,600 per job. Where yours lands depends on the attic's size, what's up there now, how much sealing it needs and whether old material has to come out. My free on-site estimate gives you the figure for your own attic.
Yes, sealing comes before insulating. Federal guidance on attic work runs in this order: make sure gas appliances vent safely and the house gets fresh air, handle attic ventilation, finish air sealing, then insulate, because sealing first gets the most energy savings out of the job. That's the order we work in.
It can be if it's disturbed, because the EPA says vermiculite can release asbestos fibers into the air, and it recommends leaving it alone. If you choose removal, the EPA says a trained, accredited asbestos abatement contractor should do it, separate from whoever assessed it. If I spot it, I'll point it out before anything else happens.
In California, this work falls under the state contractors board's insulation and acoustical classification, which covers installing any insulating material for temperature or sound control. The state's small-job exemption from licensing stops at $1,000, and it applies only when the work needs no permit and the person doing it employs no one. A good contractor should also be able to explain the permit side to you.
Clear a path to the attic hatch and move anything stored right below it. If you have a gas or oil furnace or water heater, ENERGY STAR suggests having it tested for proper drafting before and after sealing, because a tighter house can sometimes pull exhaust back inside. Families usually stay home for loose fill, and with foam we tell you the re-entry time, when it's safe to come back in.
The install is usually the shorter part, and the calendar mostly turns on what has to happen first. Repairs like a roof leak or old wiring get handled before we start, and any permit has to clear the city. I'll give you a realistic start once I've been up in your attic.
When you call (707) 576-6028 or send the form, mention any gas or oil appliances and what the old insulation looks like, so I come out ready for your attic.
